The head of a giant catfish dangled dangerously beneath the dock near
Doru Oniga's restaurant in Eselnita, Romania, next to the boat that
takes his guests upriver. Only a few minutes away -- by boat or by car
-- are the Iron Gates, cataracts between almost vertical cliffs, where
the great Danube River is forced into a narrow channel between the
Carpathian and Balkan mountains. The wash of passing cruise ships or
barges laden with grain or gravel occasionally slapped against the
metal, lifting the pontoon from its moorings. But mostly all was quiet,
as tranquil and as beautiful a place to watch the world go by as any
other on the Queen of Europe's rivers.
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