“It’s almost like a religion in a way,” said 31-year-old “professional surfer Julie Cox.
When Cox described what draws her to the waves, it’s not hard to
understand why many Californians find spirituality in surfing. “You find
your peace out there, looking out at the horizon,” Cox said. “You’re
out catching a bunch of waves, watching the sun go down, while birds are
diving down to get their food, or a dolphin pops up right next to you.
For me, that’s as good as it gets. That’s my kind of church.”
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